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Il Baciarino: An Off-the-Beaten Path Tuscan Retreat

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ItalyIssue 15 — La Dolce Vita

Il Baciarino: An Off-the-Beaten Path Tuscan Retreat

April 10, 2017

In 2013, photographer Julia Spiess of Dinner with Friends and her husband, Frank Schott, were exploring the Maremma region of Tuscany when they chanced upon a small agriturismo. After a memorable meal of local seafood cooked to perfection by proprietor Andrea Temperani, Julia says, “We came as strangers and left as friends.” Since then Julia and Frank have been annual visitors at Il Baciarino.

Hidden in an olive and oak grove on the slopes a small town of Vetulonia, Il Baciarino is located in what Julia describes as a “non-touristy” part of Tuscany. The property, when Andrea and his wife, Clelia Andreini, first discovered it, boasted two dilapidated sheep sheds, but also an unblemished, 360 degree view of the Italian countryside and the distant Tyrrhenian Sea. Enchanted, the couple decided to establish their agriturismo, which they named for an indigenous tree that grows only in this region of Tuscany.

Photography by Julia Spiess.

andrea and clelia built each of il baciarino&#8\2\17;s five guest accommoda 17
Above: Andrea and Clelia built each of Il Baciarino’s five guest accommodations themselves, using traditional, locally sourced materials.
il baciarino tuscany agritourism jug 18
il baciarino kitchen 19
Above, L to R: Julia delights in Il Baciarino’s simple Italian details such as the corded electrical wire; the kitchen at La Farfalla, “The Butterfly.”
il baciarino&#8\2\17;s casettas are designed in the traditional style with 20
Above: Il Baciarino’s casettas are designed in the traditional style with stone walls with high wood beamed ceiling. The interiors are simple yet cozy. Many of the furnishings were built by Andrea using recycled materials.
in the bathroom of la dolce vita, andrea used a piece of driftwood to create a 21
Above: In the bathroom of La Dolce Vita, Andrea used a piece of driftwood to create a hanging shelf.
with such stunning views, the il baciarino experience is meant to be lived outd 22
Above: With such stunning views, the Il Baciarino experience is meant to be lived outdoors. Therefore, each casetta is equipped with an outdoor living area for lounging and dining al fresco.
a swedish style hot tub and two sun beds (made by andrea from palettes) take in 23
Above: A Swedish style hot tub and two sun beds (made by Andrea from palettes) take in a unblemished view.
dotted throughout the hillside property, each two person casetta is entirely pr 24
Above: Dotted throughout the hillside property, each two-person casetta is entirely private.
guests at la dolce vita may join others for dinner at cucina di andrea or prepa 25
Above: Guests at La Dolce Vita may join others for dinner at Cucina di Andrea or prepare a simple repast in their casetta’s outdoor kitchen.
il baciarino agritourismo tuscany dinner 26
il baciarino agritourismo tuscany outdoor seating 27
Above: An intimate dinner set in the outdoor lounge area of La Dolce Vita includes olive oil pressed at Il Baciarino.
prepping for guests at cucina di andrea, an outdoor kitchen and dining roo 28
Above: Prepping for guests at Cucina Di Andrea, an outdoor kitchen and dining room presided over by Andrea and Clelia.
born into a local fishing family andrea continues the family tradition, each da 29
Above: Born into a local fishing family Andrea continues the family tradition, each day returning with fresh catch, which he prepares for dinner in his outdoor kitchen. (We love the ingenious use of inexpensive fruit tree netting as shade canopy.)
whether the food or the accommodations, everything at il baciarino is simple an 30
Above: Whether the food or the accommodations, everything at Il Baciarino is simple and fresh.
a short hike up the hill leads to the tiny etruscan town of vetulonia, where gu 31
Above: A short hike up the hill leads to the tiny Etruscan town of Vetulonia, where guests can procure wine, cheese, and other provisions.

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